On my first visit to the Montenegrin towns of Plav and Gusinje a decade ago, I was in awe of the majestic peaks surrounding me. They seemed both wondrous and a bit intimidating. I never imagined I would one day climb to their very tops. But each time I returned, I surprised myself by venturing higher and higher.
Last year, my husband Duško and I set our sights on hiking Trojan, an impressive mountain in the Prokletije range. Our friend Sanja, an experienced mountaineer, had agreed to guide us. But when a rare chance arose for her to summit Mount Radohines instead, we completely understood. "Well, I guess it's just you and me," Duško said with a grin. I took a deep breath. I knew this would be a challenge, but I was determined to make it my birthday gift to him.
We rose at dawn and made the drive to Ljepuša, a village in Albania that serves as a starting point for many Prokletije ascents. The trail stretched 6 km ahead of us, ascending 885 meters to the top of Trojan. The first part wound through a beautiful forest that made us forget the strenuous climb. Emerging from the trees, we caught sight of our end goal. It looked even farther than we had thought.
Stopping to catch our breath at a mountain hut, we knew the toughest part was yet to come. The trail steepened sharply as it switchbacked up slopes of scree and loose rock. "Whose idea was this again?" I muttered as Duško marched on ahead. But each time I paused to look back, the breathtaking views of the craggy peaks and lush valleys below spurred me onward.
After over four hours, we finally reached the narrow summit ridge. Carefully picking our way along the spine of jumbled boulders, we arrived triumphantly at Trojan's peak. The 360-degree panorama was worth every step. We could see Plav and Gusinje far below, nestled among the sea of mountains. Taking it all in, I felt a surge of pride. "We really did it," I said, high-fiving Duško. "Not bad for a couple of old goats."
On the descent, we took a wrong turn and found ourselves in a tranquil pasture dotted with grazing cattle. Once we got back on track, a huge herd of curious goats approached us, their guardian dogs barking fiercely until the shepherd whistled them away.
Returning to our starting point 9 hours later, we were tired but giddy with accomplishment. The mystical, mighty Accursed Mountains had cast their spell. We knew we'd be back again soon to explore even more of their rugged wonders, one step at a time.
Bonus video:
