When my friend Zoga suggested a weekday afternoon hike to Koložunske Grede, at first I was skeptical. As someone who wilts in the heat, summer treks are usually off the table for me. But his promise of cooler temps and the best sunset views convinced my husband Duško and me to join him on this unorthodox after-work adventure.
Winding the Way Through Majstori
We met up at Ivanova Korita, a popular picnic spot and trailhead in Lovćen. From there, our route first took us through Majstori, a long-abandoned highland village. A gentle 2 km ascent on a little-used jeep track brought us to this scenic hamlet nestled at 1,211 meters (3,973 feet).
We were delighted by the tranquil beauty of the weathered stone cottages set against green meadows ablaze with wildflowers. Bright yellow pansies and delicate harebells nodded in the breeze. I couldn't resist pausing every few steps to admire and photograph the colorful blooms.
Once home to the Kustudija brotherhood, Majstori saw most of its residents perish in WWII. Survivors left for Vojvodina or emigrated, leaving the village to crumble back into the earth. A poignant war memorial stands on a central hill, while nearby a large threshing circle hints at the agricultural rhythms of the past.
Ascending Through Alpine Meadows
From Majstori, the real climb began as we swung west to ascend the 200 meters to Koložunske Grede's summit. The single-track path, though unmarked, was easy to follow as it switchbacked up slopes carpeted in vibrant wildflowers and waving grasses. The grade was steady but moderate, never exceeding Class 1 hiking.
Behind us, sweeping views unfolded over the bucolic hills and lonely church of Majstori village. Ahead, tantalizing glimpses of the sea began to appear as we climbed above the treeline. By the time we crested the ridge, the sun was just starting to dip toward the watery horizon.
360 Degrees of Unparalleled Views
Reaching Koložunske Grede's rocky summit, marked by the skeletal remains of an old weather station, we were rewarded with heart-stopping 360-degree views. To the east, row after row of sawtooth peaks stretched to the horizon, including the unmistakable profiles of Veliki Kosmač, Vrsuta, and Rumija.
But it was the westward view that held us utterly spellbound. From our windswept perch, we had an eagle's-eye panorama over the glittering Bay of Kotor, the lush Lustica Peninsula, and the sun slowly sinking into the Adriatic. Shades of gold and rose danced on the glassy surface of the sea, while the last rays painted the limestone cliffs in an otherworldly alpenglow.
Though I could have stayed drinking in this vista for hours, we had several kilometers yet to cover before dark. After a short break for water and photos, we set off north along the undulating spine of the ridge. The microclimate here was fascinating - tiny alpine flowers and hardy succulents eked out a living in the cracks between the jumbled karst boulders.
Racing the Fading Light
With each passing minute, the violet shadows of dusk crept higher up the flanks of the surrounding peaks. By the time we reached the slightly higher summit of Baba Glava at 1474 meters, the sun had vanished into the Adriatic and we found ourselves hiking through an impressionist painting of mauves and indigos limned with the last smudges of sunset gold.
From there, it was a race against full darkness as we descended the northern slopes of the mountain back toward our starting point. Here Zoga's deep familiarity with the area came in handy, as he led us along a web of game trails and old bridle paths that cut a more direct route through the thick beech woods.
Hiking by Moonlight
Despite our best efforts, night fell long before we made it back to Ivanova Korita. We hadn't anticipated being out past dark, so no one had packed a headlamp. Thank goodness for the flashlight feature on smartphones! Laughing at our own over-optimistic planning, we carefully picked our way along the final few kilometers by the wan glow of our tiny screens.
Far from being spooky, hiking through the forest by moonlight turned into an enchanting experience. Shafts of silvery light filtered through the canopy, while night birds and crickets serenaded us. The velvety darkness heightened our other senses, attuning us to the whispering breezes and night-blooming scents that we'd likely have overlooked in the daytime.
Roughly nine hours after setting out, we finally stumbled back into the parking lot at Ivanova Korita, exhausted but buzzing with adrenaline and a sense of shared accomplishment. Our spontaneous after-work adventure had reignited our passion for exploring Montenegro's lesser-known corners. We were already brainstorming where our next "hidden hike" would take us as we piled into the car for the late-night drive back to Podgorica.
Quick Tips for Hiking to Koložunske Grede
The trailhead is at Ivanova Korita, roughly 45 minutes from Podgorica or Cetinje. Park near the fountain.
Total distance for this loop hike is around 12 km with 500m elevation gain. Allow 5-6 hours.
The route is mostly Class 1 hiking. Some sections are steep, rocky and exposed. Sturdy shoes are a must.
Trails are generally easy to follow but not marked. A GPS track or guide is helpful.
Start in late afternoon for the best light and to avoid the heat. But pack a headlamp!
Bring layers as temps drop quickly at sunset. Don't forget plenty of water and snacks.
Wildflowers peak from late May to early July. September brings spectacular fall foliage.
Bonus video:
